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Tentative Rules[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Joseph DiMuro wrote on Mon, Jan 20, 2003 04:27 AM UTC:
I assume that a piece moving, say, northeast from g8 bounces off two
imaginary squares and reenters on h7, moving southwest.

Did I assume correctly? :-)

ZRF question[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Antoine Fourrière wrote on Sun, Jan 19, 2003 09:38 PM UTC:
Here is a piece of code which works for another pair of drops (plus a third
one on a phony square). The macro drops a pair of halfling long-leapers on
b1 and g1, or b8 and g8, by clicking on g1 or g8, after veryfing that
shooters, coordinators, advancers or withdrawers haven't been dropped by
either player(only one pair of halflings will be dropped -- the same type
for each player, but the first player chooses where -- and which kind --
to drop), and that the two squares to receive the halfling long leapers
are empty . (It also drops a third one on DroppedLongLeapers, to prevent
the drop of shooters, coordinators, advancers or withdrawers.)

(define drop-halfling-long-leapers-on-g (
	(verify (and (neutral? WhiteKingMoved) (neutral? BlackKingMoved)))
	(verify (empty? DroppedShooters))
	(verify (empty? DroppedCoordinators))
	(verify (empty? DroppedAdvancers))
	(verify (empty? DroppedWithdrawers))
	(if (am-white) b1 else b8)
	(verify empty?)
	(if (am-white) g1 else g8)
	(verify empty?)
	cascade
	(if (am-white) b1 else b8)
	cascade
	DroppedLongLeapers
	add
))

The procedure is called in the drops part of the piece. So something like

(if (am-white) 'this square' else 'that square'
(verify empty?)
cascade
(if am-white) 'that square' else 'this square'
(verify empty?)
change-owner
add


should work, at least if the rotational or reflectional squares are known
-and empty?

Peter Aronson wrote on Sun, Jan 19, 2003 09:00 PM UTC:
At Zillions 2.0 you can use the create command.

Tentative Rules[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Moussambani wrote on Sun, Jan 19, 2003 07:24 PM UTC:
mmm... looks good. But you must tell what happens with an arrow that points
directly at a board corner (vg a northeast arrow at h8)

Peter Aronson wrote on Sat, Jan 18, 2003 10:31 PM UTC:
The designs for the <a href='../dpieces.dir/fighting-fizzies.html'>Fighting Fizzies</a> and for <a href='../other.dir/ruddigore-chess.html'>Ruddigore Chess</a> were first posted in the comment system for input before they became pages. No one complained, and the feedback was helpful.

Pocket Chess[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Michael Nelson wrote on Thu, Jan 16, 2003 06:15 PM UTC:
I have the game concept worked out and I'm going over the list of pieces
and writing a ZRF. 

Pieces will have value classes from 1 for pawns, 2 for minor pieces, up to
8 for an Amazon-rider (!).  If you don't have a piece in your pocket you
may remove one of your pieces (not your king) from the board and put it
'in your pocket'.  This piece is is immediately demoted one value class
(but pawns are not demoted)--except when the piece is removed from the
eight rank: in that case the piece is immediately promoted one value class
(but a class 8 piece remains class 8).  You may choose any piece of the
appropriate value class when you put the piece in your pocket. 

If you have a piece in your pocket, you may drop it on the board.  A class
1 piece (pawn) may drop anywhere on the board, a class 2 piece may drop on
the first to seventh ranks, a class 3 piece on the first to sixth ranks,
and up to a class 8 piece can only drop on the fisrt rank.

Pocketing and dropping each count as moves.

Promotion is done only by pocketing on the enemy eighth rank, so it is
legal to pocket a pawn, drop it on the eight rank, repocket it and promote
to a minor piece. But this will take four moves to get the minor piece on
the board.  Pocketing and dropping closer to the eight rank for promotion
won't be used for non-pawns as you demote one class for the first
pocketing and the promotion takes you back to where you started-- though
this could be a viable way to reconfigure your army.

A pawn dropped on the first rank may not take a double step, a pawn
dropped on the second rank or moved up from the first rank may. Castling
may not be done with a dropped Rook.

Your may keep a piece in your pocket as long as you wish, but you choose
the new piece when the piece goes in to the pocket.

Strategy and tactics will focus on breaking through to the enemy back rank
to use it for promotions.

I would like to hear suggestions for the pieces in each value class.

World Champ[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Antoine Fourrière wrote on Thu, Jan 16, 2003 09:25 AM UTC:
In each match, each player chooses his variant (which may be Orthochess),
and the two players send simultaneously their moves in four games (this
takes care of games which are a sure win for one side).
In a round-robin, win, draw and loss are valued the usual 1, 0.5 and 0,
and you can have the players share four points or have their scores
normalized to 1, 0.5 and 0.
In match play, first first win (in one variant) is awarded an extra 0.11,
and second first win (in the other variant) gets only 0.10, so this may
untie the match.

Coalition Chess[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Ben Good wrote on Thu, Jan 16, 2003 06:17 AM UTC:
hey, thanks.  the rules are horribly written, i can't tell if this because
it's not a good translation, or cause schoenberg's original rules were
written badly also.  it's not clear to me if the plane can only capture at
the end of the second move, or if it can capture on the first and then
make a second knight move (chushogi lion-style), but it's more likely that
he meant the former, in which case his claim that the plane is the most
powerful piece is false, considering that the sub is equivalent to the
amazon.  anyway, i'll add it to my (long) cv to-do list to submit a page
to the editors for linking to these pages.

John Lawson wrote on Thu, Jan 16, 2003 04:50 AM UTC:
Look at:

http://www.schoenberg.at/6_archiv/designs/designs_chess_e.htm

http://www.usc.edu/isd/archives/schoenberg/painting/gamehtms/noritter10.htm

Ben Good wrote on Thu, Jan 16, 2003 04:12 AM UTC:
anybody know where i can find the rules to coalition chess
(koalitionsschach)?  it doesn't appear on cv.com or in the evc.  i don't
know if it's a good game, but i'm curious because it was invented by
12-tone composer arnold schoenberg.

World Champ[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Glenn Overby II wrote on Thu, Jan 16, 2003 12:54 AM UTC:
I absolutely agree.  But I note several practical difficulties.

1) Which variants?  This also invites subquestions...how is a variant
recognized for official play, how is the list determined for a
championship series, how do we develop laws which cover the wide realm of
variants...
2) Should games such as shogi and xiangqi (or Western chess!), with their
own firmly established organizations, be considered as variants?
3) Should tournaments utilizing only one variant be counted, or only
events involving two or more?
4) How does one balance the variants in issuing ratings, given that player
proficiency is certain to vary across the spectrum of games?
5) Is there enough of an audience of variantists (who play more than one
or two games with some proficiency) to be credible or worthwhile?

Certainly as the contest guy here, I'm keenly interested in the idea you
raise.  But we'd have quite a road in front of us...

Glenn Overby

Richard Hutnik wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 11:50 PM UTC:
I believe chess variants would be taken more seriously, and get better
support, if there was a world champion at them and a world championship to
determine who is the best Chess Variant player.  For this, all variants
agreed to by the regulating organization would be open game.  A problem
with fostering one or another chess variant in particular to serve as an
alternative standard FIDE is that it doesn't generate enough interest.

What are people's comments regarding this?  Do you feel having a world
champion chess variant player, and a rating system, would be of value?

Membership[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
David Howe wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 05:06 PM UTC:
Verified comments now display full name instead of user id. I have also
added editing capability so that verified comments can be edited even
after they are posted..

Computer Cheats![Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Douglas wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 01:59 PM UTC:
How is it possible for someone to know if the person you are playing is
using a computer cheat program to win against you? I wouldn't think that
would be fair to someone who is trying very hard at the game with no
chance of winning.

Membership[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Ben Good wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 05:30 AM UTC:
testing one two.

David Howe wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 04:06 AM UTC:
I can have it display your full name. But if you hover your mouse pointer
over the smiley face, it will give your name.

John Lawson wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 04:01 AM UTC:
Had I understood that the comment pages would now display my ID instead of
my name, I would have not used such an anti-mnemonic ID.

John Lawson wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 03:58 AM UTC:
I'm just testing making posts as a member.

Dibs![Subject Thread] [Add Response]
🕸Fergus Duniho wrote on Wed, Jan 15, 2003 03:24 AM UTC:
Here's a way to do it with a bit less overhead. Have two Bishop pieces and
call one an unmoved_Bishop. When the unmoved Bishop moves, change it to an
ordinary Bishop, and create another piece on its old space.

Membership[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
David Howe wrote on Tue, Jan 14, 2003 10:58 PM UTC:
When creating a comment, if you are a member, you may specify your user id.
After previewing your comment you will enter your password. This will, in
effect, allow people to create *verified* comments (ie. the name
associated with the comment really is the person that the name indicates).
In the near future, I will be adding the capability of allowing people to
edit their own (verified) comments.

David Howe wrote on Tue, Jan 14, 2003 10:53 PM UTC:
I have implemented a very crude membership system for chessvariants.com. You
can now become a member of this site. I have also changed the commenting
system to be able to utilize member information. Stay tuned as we continue
to develop this capability and add member functions to various areas of the
site. Feedback is welcome and keep in mind -- this is a work in
progress...

Dibs![Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Peter Aronson wrote on Tue, Jan 14, 2003 12:10 AM UTC:
Well, as usual with Zillions, there are a number of ways to do what you
want.  The approach I'd be inclined to try is use a first move attribute
for the piece, and on the first move use an add-copy instead of an add,
and then go back and do a change type on the starting square.

M. Howe wrote on Mon, Jan 13, 2003 11:46 PM UTC:
Hey!  I rather like the Chess++ idea.  And it even fits my game concept
thematically.  Dibs again!  ;)  So here's a coding question for Peter or
the other top ZRF experts.  I'd like to set up a game where pieces are 'in
the queue' off the board behind specific pieces that start in the array. 
For example, let's say that a 'general' starts in the queue behind the
'cardinal.'  When the cardinal moves away from its array square, the
general appears there.  This only happens once, though, and additional
moves by the cardinal do not create more generals.  This idea might allow
me to incorporate unorthodox pieces on the standard chessboard without
clogging up the array and therefore bogging down the opening.  And who
wants clogging and bogging, anyway?  But I need to playtest it.  Any hints
on the best way to code this in Zillions?  I could probably come up with
something, but I have the feeling it would take me ten times as long to
reason it out as it will take Peter et.al.  Thanks!

Peter Aronson wrote on Mon, Jan 13, 2003 09:54 PM UTC:
Some similar ideas to Chess Plus: Chess++ (a joke on the computer language C++) or Chess+- (Chess more or less). <p> I don't think either of those are taken. On the other hand, there are a number of unpublished YA named games (no, not <u>Y</u>oung <u>A</u>dult, but <u>Y</u>et <u>A</u>nother, like in YACC for <u>Y</u>et <u>A</u>nother <u>C</u>ompiler <u>C</u>ompiler), such as YADCV (<u>Y</u>et <u>A</u>nother <u>D</u>ecimal <u>C</u>hess <u>V</u>ariant), or one by David Howe who's name escapes me.

M. Howe wrote on Mon, Jan 13, 2003 09:21 PM UTC:
Thanks for the info.  I am indeed concerned about avoiding confusion, and I
guess I retract my dibs (which I hope people realize was half-joking
anyway).  I'll try to think of something unique.

Meanwhile, I have written a ZRF for Mike Nelson's 'Capablanca-64' and
included an alternate array I'm calling 'Carrera-64'.  They both appear to
be very good games and a great way to incorporate the B+N and R+N onto the
standard chessboard.

Robert Shimmin wrote on Mon, Jan 13, 2003 08:48 PM UTC:
If the goal is to avoid confusion, then you should be aware that 
Chess Plus is the name of an existing commercial four-player variant.
The author sells it at

http://www3.sympatico.ca/thejohnston/chess_plus.htm

If you're not concerned about avoiding confusion, then why bother with
calling dibs or anysuch?  Just look at how many superchesses there are.

M. Howe wrote on Mon, Jan 13, 2003 11:24 AM UTC:
Hmmm, well I want to use 'Chess Plus' and the link is to 'Chess Plus
Dvorak.'  Not exactly the same, so I think I can still call --- Dibs! 
Seriously, though, the linked site is interesting and might make a fun
game for people who don't mind the element of chance in their chess.

John Lawson wrote on Mon, Jan 13, 2003 07:24 AM UTC:
Well, it's not exactly on this site, but....
http://www.chessvariants.com/link2.dir/chessplusdeck.html

M. Howe wrote on Sun, Jan 12, 2003 10:03 PM UTC:
I have come up with a CV I'd like to call Chess Plus.  And since it appears
no one has used that name yet on these pages, I'm here to call dibs!  It's
an 8x8 game using orthodox pieces, Marshal, Cardinal, enhanced knights,
enhanced bishops, and two additional pieces that depend on what variant
you select -- basic version uses Dukes, which are
ferz+wazir+alfil+dabbaba.  I'll send the game to the editors for posting
as soon as I can slap together a rules file.  I've already built the ZRF.

Chess Dictionary[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
RaymondReid wrote on Sun, Jan 12, 2003 05:43 PM UTC:
The 2003 edition of the Chesmayne Chess Dictionary is now available at:

http://chesmayn.valuehost.co.uk/

Maditation[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Danielle wrote on Wed, Jan 1, 2003 05:23 PM UTC:
I recommend to everyone who wishes to enter this incredible site about
Meditation and that carries out a marvellous program of food distribution
for the homless of New York; philosophy, enlightenment, wisdom. This site
has given me so much, I hope it will give you too. www.har-tzion.com

Winter Chess?[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
William Overington wrote on Mon, Dec 9, 2002 07:19 PM UTC:
The Lùotuoqí project is well under way and will take many months to be
completed.

I was wondering whether it might be a nice idea if the chess variants
management could please consider running a second event for a
committee-designed game, under similar but different rules, just for fun. 
No prizes, other than the pleasure of the finished game being available on
the chess variants website.

If the management would be willing to run such an event I suggest the
following format.  However, please change it around if you wish.

1.  The game follows a suggestion and voting procedure similar to the
Lùotuoqí project, except that suggestions and votes are in the open and in
the comments of a web page about the event, thereby producing an
interesting record of the project.

2.  The whole process is to be completed by the end of Monday 23 December
2002, that is, just over a fortnight from the time that this suggestion is
posted.

3.  The starting point is that the number of spaces is to be decided
amongst the participants during the event.  The game could perhaps be
called Winter Chess as a working title to start, but the name could be up
for voting as well.

4.  The game would not necessarily be played with an orthodox chess set,
that too is part of the design process.

5.  The whole process will be fast track, maybe a vote each day next
week!

6.  This is intended to be just a magnificent piece of fun.  However, it
might perhaps give an insight into the way that a series of five votes
iterates into a final result, bearing in mind that the result of one vote
could perhaps mean that some of the choices for the next vote would then
not be possible.

7.  The participants could perhaps have the fun of designing the
illustrations for the final web page, a Zillions file and maybe producing
a few sample games, so that the final result is available at the end of 23
December 2002.

How do readers, both the management of the chess variants website and also
potential participants, feel about this please?

Optima[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
M. Howe wrote on Sun, Dec 1, 2002 03:23 AM UTC:
After years of tinkering, and several months of fairly intensive work, I
have completed a working version of Optima.  It's a very complex chess
variant using orthodox, semi-orthodox, ultima-like, and highly unorthodox
and original pieces.  It's a 10x10 variant and each player has one rank of
pawns, one rank of guards, and one rank of pieces which can be the same
for both players or different for each player.  It uses a variety of
capturing methods, including replacement, proximity, airplane, rifle, and
snowplow, and also includes pieces that immobilize or convert enemy units.
 There are also pieces with special abilities to resist a particular form
of capture, immobilization, or conversion.  There are 53 pieces so far
defined, one of which is the king, one of which is the wizard and can only
be obtained by pawn promotion, and 51 others, of which either 9 will be
used for an equal armies game, or 18 for an unequal armies game.  More
pieces are being considered for a future release.  There are also
alternative pawn and guard rules.  Ralph Betza once said on these pages
that there are a billion chess variants.  Well, Optima is either one chess
variant, or, if my math is correct, 42 quadrillion chess variants (not
counting different startng arrays and alternative kings).  I've done a
great deal of Zillions vs. Zillions playtesting and have not yet been able
to find a broken scenario, although of course some armies will be much
stronger than others.  The 'choose-up' rule takes care of that nicely.  If
anyone is interested, email me at [email protected] and I will email you the
zip file containing the ZRFs, the graphics, and the readme file.  I'll
send the game to the editors, but it may be a while before a page goes up.

Anticheckmate[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Peter Aronson wrote on Sun, Nov 17, 2002 09:52 PM UTC:
It still seems to me that if it is called 'Anticheckmate Chess' that there ought to be some form of, well, Anticheckmate with check and all that, not simply you win if not attacked -- that's sort of like anticapture. Confusling it is!

gnohmon wrote on Sat, Nov 16, 2002 03:36 AM UTC:
Sorry, I hadn't been listening. Apparently, anticheckmate chess might be a
new game.

It's precisely what I said: WKe8, BKe1, Kings may not capture, all else as
per rule zero except that if you ever make a move that ends with your K
not in check you win.

Clearly, 1. f2-f4???? Ke1-f2 is the shortest game. 1. e2-e4? Ke1-e2! is
also bad.

Reference Racing Kings.

This is such a simple idea I thought it must already have been taken; and
you can tell without playtesting that it works well, with a feel similar
to Racing K.

This is such an obvious idea.

Ultima: German[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Anonymous wrote on Wed, Nov 13, 2002 12:05 PM UTC:
Thanks, Alfred. I have taken the freedom to translate
Immobilizer into 'Ruhigsteller' for my project on
germanising ABChess, but this is not yet fixed.

--JKn

Alfred Pfeiffer wrote on Wed, Nov 13, 2002 10:53 AM UTC:
Hi Joerg,

I assume in German 'official' names for Ultima pieces does not exist.
Each author tries to find the best adaption.  The German version of
Zillions used names that differ from my inventions. I wrote a small
article for the magazin 'Computer-Schach und Spiele'. Please look to
'http://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~apf/Gnaax/CV/Ultima/ultima2.html'
for the content.

Friendly greetings,
Alfred Pfeiffer

Anonymous wrote on Wed, Nov 13, 2002 07:55 AM UTC:
If I remember right, a german description of Ultima
was once published in Spektrum der Wissenschaft (sister
journal of Scientific American). Since I cannot retrieve
the reference quickly here is my question: What are the
names of the Ultima pieces in german?

--JKn

Anticheckmate[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Peter Aronson wrote on Tue, Nov 12, 2002 10:35 PM UTC:
Have you any plans to do anything else with this, Ralph?

modest chess[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Jianying Ji wrote on Fri, Nov 1, 2002 04:05 PM UTC:
The page was not index so I'm writing the comment here:

Here's a modest variant:

immortal pawns:

Pawns promotes on the owner's last three ranks. 
Promotion required on last rank only.
Pawns promote to captured pieces only.
Pawns are return to the owner to be dropped, if captured.
Dropped pawn drops only to the first four ranks of the Pawn's owner.
Drops takes a whole turn.

Comments:

These changes are motivated by the desire to make it possible 
to resurrect any piece and have after some captures to restore 
back on the board the full 32 piece complement, and to do so with
minimal change to the rules. It seemed tweeking promotion as the 
simplest way to do that

Anticheckmate[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Peter Aronson wrote on Thu, Oct 24, 2002 08:23 PM UTC:
Thinking about this a bit more, it occurs to me that if it is really to be 'Anticheckmate', then the victory condition needs to be a bit different. Something like: <blockquote> Kings attack opposing Kings, anywhere else on the board. The only thing prevents the opposing King from attacking your King is if you have a piece attacking the opposing King. Thus, if your opponent's King becomes 'unattacked', you are in check, and if you can't attack it in your immeadiately following move, you are checkmated. </blockquote>

Peter Aronson wrote on Thu, Oct 24, 2002 05:18 PM UTC:
David, I'm not sure how you'd combine checkmate and a rule that moving out of check wins. It seems to me once check is made, the game is over the next turn, since the checked King's player either moves out of check, and wins, or is checkmated, and loses. Now, if a player won, once in check, by <em>starting</em> a turn out of check, the game would turn into a desperate series of checks at that point. Of course, this could easily turn into perpetual check. <p> <hr> <p> A more dynamic name for Ralph's proposed game might be <u>King's Escape</u>. <p> <hr> <p> I threw together a quick ZRF of this game by hacking up the Anti-King Chess ZRF. Too quick -- it didn't work quite right. However, in the process I came up with a mild variant. A player won, if after the movement of their <i>King</i>, their King was not under attack. This had the interesting effect that a player could leave their opponent's King unattacked as long as it had no move that would move it to an unattacked square.

David Howe wrote on Wed, Oct 23, 2002 05:11 PM UTC:
If this game already exists, I can't find it. Sounds like it would work
well as each player would have to balance guarding the enemy king vs.
attacking the enemy pieces. I propose we call it Royal Hostage chess.

Here's another, similar idea:

Royal Hero chess

Standard setup.
The first player to do any of the following, wins:

1. Checkmate the opposing King, or
2. Make a move that takes his King out of check
3. Bare his opponent's King

Kings may move into check.
Kings cannot be captured, but may capture.

Peter Aronson wrote on Mon, Oct 21, 2002 09:28 PM UTC:
Oh, wait a minute -- you're trying to end up with your King not attacked.
I don't think that's been done.

Peter Aronson wrote on Mon, Oct 21, 2002 06:12 PM UTC:
There is a short reference on George Jelliss' <a href='http://www.bcvs.ukf.net/gvcg.htm'>A Guide to Variant Chess</a> webpage to Anti-Chess, as follows: <blockquote><i> <b>Anti-Chess</b> Any variant in which kings are replaced by anti-kings (which are in check only when NOT attacked). It requires an initial position with Ks under attack, e.g. the usual array on a horizontal cylinder. </i></blockquote> Which would certainly include what you describe, although the non-capturing part isn't specified, but then the description is so general that it includes any game with Anti-Kings instead of Kings.

gnohmon wrote on Sun, Oct 20, 2002 04:09 AM UTC:
If we put the WK on e8 and the BK on e1, and K may not capture, and you win
if you make a move that ends with your K not in check, is this a known
game?

Ugly[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
gnohmon wrote on Sun, Oct 20, 2002 03:36 AM UTC:
The following verbose text appearing on every message and on evry item in
the whatsnew page makes things hard to read when viewed with lynx.

'
  [13]NEW! This item is a game information page, It belongs to
   categories: Two dimensional, In a category all its own It is a 2
   player game. It was last modified on:
'

Too much extraneous gbage makes it hard for the eye to scan for the useful
info.

Medieval Chess[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Nuno Cruz wrote on Sat, Oct 19, 2002 05:11 PM UTC:
It could be introduced an page on your historical variants pages about the
diferent nuances of medieval chess, its evolution and particular rules to
this or that country through the centurys, wich are now not in use or used
diferently...

:-)

Three Move Draw[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Mike Nelson wrote on Mon, Sep 30, 2002 02:16 PM UTC:
Legally, triple repetition does not require any checks. However, by far the
most common triple-repetiton draws are those involving perpetual check. I
have never experienced any other type in any game I've played or
observed.

In older verisons of the FIDE laws, perpetual check was a drawing
condition in its own right--then someone observed that pepetual check
would alway eventually lead to triple repetition, allowing the laws to be
simplified.

Ed wrote on Sun, Sep 29, 2002 06:27 PM UTC:
Hi David,  thank you for your reponse.  Then, this rule (10.10) may not
involve any check's.  I really thought it revolved around checking the
King.  I guess not...    ...thanks again.

David Howe wrote on Sun, Sep 29, 2002 02:30 PM UTC:
Here's the rule from our FIDE laws page
(http://www.chessvariants.com/fidelaws.html):

10.10
The game is drawn, upon a claim by the player having the move, when the
same position, for the third time: 
(a) is about to appear, if he first writes the move on his scoresheet and
declares to the arbiter his intention of making this move; or 
(b) has just appeared, the same player having the move each time. 
The position is considered the same if pieces of the same kind and colour
occupy the same squares, and if all the possible moves of all the pieces
are the same, including the rights to castle [at some future time] or to
capture a pawn 'en passant'.

Ed wrote on Sun, Sep 29, 2002 06:12 AM UTC:
Hi,

Can someone state the rule regarding when the King is checked three
consecutive times and it moves to the same two squares back and forth? 
Does this result in a draw?  

Suppose the King had other squares that he could have moved to but chose
the same ones to force a draw. Is this valid? Would this be a draw?

Does it matter which of the opponent's pieces were involved in giving
check? 

If I am not being very clear in my question, I do apologize, but therein
lies the problem: I do not clearly understand this rule; though, I do know
that such a rule exists.  Would someone clarify?

Appreciatively,

Wyvern[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Anonymous wrote on Thu, Sep 26, 2002 02:19 PM UTC:
I have been able to find out what a wyvern (or wivern)
is and what it looks like in a monolingual dictionary.
However, I was unable to find a translation of this
term into german --- tho I found Vouivre as a possible
french equivalent. Someone knows?

--J'org Knappen

Excellent[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Lobanotti wrote on Wed, Sep 25, 2002 08:59 PM UTC:
Hey, man.the details of the rules are really good and helpful. thank you

Asymmetry Chess[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
William Overington wrote on Thu, Sep 19, 2002 06:07 PM UTC:
I like the idea of the large board.

In addition to the general game with the ability to select armies, I feel
that it might be nice to define a game with preset armies and a
distinctive name as a particular case of the general format so that a
collection of games could hopefully be produced by various players.

Mike Nelson wrote on Wed, Sep 18, 2002 08:14 PM UTC:
I came up with that while trying to think of something else, which might be called 'Bent Rider Chess'. This would be played on a 11-by-10 board. Each player would have five different bent rider pieces (two of each) selected as in Betza's <a href="../diffmove.dir/augmented.html">Augmented Chess</a>. <p> Each piece would have a move consisting of a step or leap followed by a (optionally) by a rider move. A player would choose from (where X&gt;Y means moves X, then can move Y): <pre> F>R A>R D>R N>R W>B A>B D>B N>B F>NN W>NN A>NN D>NN F>DD W>DD A>DD N>DD F>AA W>AA D>AA N>AA </pre> in such a way that neither the first move component nor the second is duplicated. That is if you have F&gt;R you cannot have F&gt;NN or A&gt;R. <p> Any thoughts?

Doug Chatham wrote on Wed, Sep 18, 2002 07:26 PM UTC:
11 by 11?  Shouldn't a game with an asymmetry theme be played on an
asymmetrical board? :-)

Perhaps the 43-square contest would be perfect for an Asymmetry Chess...

Mike Nelson wrote on Wed, Sep 18, 2002 07:18 PM UTC:
Might be interesting to have a large variant built on the general theme of
asymmetry: some pieces would have the asymmetric retreat property but have
symetric move patterns, some would also have asymmetric forward and
backward moves, some with asymmetric left and right moves, some with
divergent captures, etc. Perhaps a 11 by 11 game with strong pieces and a
strong, asymmetric King.

William Overington wrote on Wed, Sep 18, 2002 04:53 AM UTC:
Thank you all for your replies.

Peter Aronson wrote on Mon, Sep 16, 2002 11:17 PM UTC:
An even stronger form of asymmetric retreat is the fairy piece the <a href='../piececlopedia.dir/locust.html'>Locust</a> as used in <a href='../dpieces.dir/edgehog-chess.html'>Edgehog Chess</a>. It can only move to capture, and captures by leaping over a piece to be captured to land on the empty square just past. Thus, while a Grasshopper can make a symmetrical retreat after leaping over an adjacent piece, a Locust could only make a symmetrical retreat if a hostile piece moved into the square it captured from.

Mike Nelson wrote on Mon, Sep 16, 2002 10:44 PM UTC:
Thanks, Ben.  Cannon type pieces of course have asymmetic retreat (though
these could be arguably defined as a subtype of multi-movers). Indeed the
Grasshopper and the Cannon when capturing have a stronger form of
asymettric retreat.  Some definitions:

1. High-power Symmetric Retreat--the piece can alway return to its
starting square on the next move by reversing its path (unless prohibited
by the need to meet check, etc.) Example:  Knight. Nb1-c3 can always be
followed by Nc3-b1.

2. Low-power Symmetric Retreat--the piece can return to its starting
square on the next move by reversing its path unless the opponent has used
his turn to block it.
Example: Rook.  Rc3-h3 can be follewd by Rh3-c3 if opponent has not moved
a piece to d3,e3,f3 or g3.

3. Low-power Asymmetric Retreat--the piece cannot reverse its path but may
be able to return to its starting square on the next move if the alternate
retreat path is not blocked. Example: Gryphon.

4. High-power Asymmetric Retreat--the piece cannot return to its starting
square on the next move unless the opponent moves to facilitate it.
Example: Grasshopper.  Gc3-c7 cannot be followed by Gc7-c3 unless the
opponent moves a piece to c4.

Ben Good wrote on Mon, Sep 16, 2002 10:12 PM UTC:
well, besides multi-movers, leaping pieces such as grasshoppers have
symmetric move patterns but assymetric retreat.  and xiangqi cannon has
assymetric retreat when capturing but not when moving, which is one of the
things that makes it such a neat piece (and difficult to get used to).<P>

and incidentally any piece that move differently forwards than backwards
(these pieces don't have symmetric move patterns, at least not about the
x-axis) is going to have assymetric retreat.  this includes lots of betza
pieces such as fBbR, fRbB, etc etc (i could go on and on) and shogi pieces
(which can of course be easily described in betza notation) such as the
gold, silver, copper generals, the white horse and the whale, etc etc.

Mike Nelson wrote on Mon, Sep 16, 2002 09:57 PM UTC:
The bent riders and lame leapers (like the Mao) are part of a larger class
that might be called 'multi-movers'.  These are pieces that can make two
(or more) geometrically different moves in the same turn.  The gryphon
moves as a Ferz and then (optionally) as a Rook; the Mao moves as a Wazir
then (mandatorily) as a Ferz. Any such piece will have the asymmetric
retreat property if the order of move types is not reversible. If the
gryphon could move Ferz then Rook or Rook then Ferz it would not have the
asymetric retreat property (and would be immensely powerful).

True leapers such as the Knight in a sense might be said to have the
asymmetric retreat property but it is irrelevant as they can jump over
occupied squares--I prefer to think of a leaper's move as a direct
point-to-point move that does not pass over interventing squares, in which
case the Knights retreat is not asymmetic.

I believe that multi-movers are the only type of pieces which have
symmetric movement patterns but asymmetric retreat. (OK everbody, please
prove me wrong if possible!)

Anonymous wrote on Mon, Sep 16, 2002 08:32 AM UTC:
My s[w]eeping switchers army for chess with different
armies features three pieces with assymetric retreat.
All of them are bent riders: The panda (aka slip rook),
the erl queen (aka slip queen) and the unicorn.

Another one is the mao (xiangi horse) which is not a bent
rider.

--Jörg Knappen

MIke Nelson wrote on Sat, Sep 14, 2002 06:42 PM UTC:
Check out Ralph Betza's article on <a href='http://www.chessvariants.com/piececlopedia.dir/bent-riders.html'>Bent Riders</a> for more information on this type of piece.

William Overington wrote on Sat, Sep 14, 2002 04:28 PM UTC:
I notice in the page for the Griffon the statement that the Griffon has
asymmetrical-retreat properties.

This is interesting.

I wonder if it might be a nice idea to devise a chess variant where all of
the pieces have asymmetrical-retreat properties.

Are there any other pieces which have asymmetrical-retreat properties or
would some need to be devised in order to produce such a game?

There could be a piece which is related to a conventional bishop in much
the same manner as a griffon is related to a conventional rook, in that
for such a piece there could be a move of one square orthogonally followed
by a diagonal move away from the original position for zero or more empty
squares, together with the possibility of capturing from a final occupied
square of the move.  This piece would always move to a square of the
opposite colour.

It would seem that in order to have asymmetrical-retreat properties that a
piece could not be simply a leaper.

There could be pieces where one screen piece in the route of movement is a
necessity.  One such could perhaps be a piece that has movement which
changes from orthogonal to diagonal at the screen piece.

Any ideas for existing or new pieces which would be suitable for such a
game please?

Piece Density[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Mike Nelson wrote on Fri, Sep 13, 2002 06:13 AM UTC:
I think Gabriel is on the right track but needs an improved methodology.  I
would suggest using Betza's crowded board mobilty calculations.  To get
middle game figures, deflate the piece count by 40% and then calculate the
piece density.  For FIDE chess this gives a deflated piece density of 30%
and a square emptiness probability of 70%.  Then using these numbers
calculate the croweded board mobility of one army (for divergent pieces
such as pawns, just use the average of the mobility of the capturing and
non-capturing moves). As it happens this is quite close to 64 for FIDE
chess--so lets simplfy and say that that it is exactly 64 for a ratio of
mobility to number of squares of 1.0.

Having calculated the crowded board mobility of the army divide the square
of the number of squares by the mobitity. For FIDE chess, this is 64
squared divided by 64 = 64.  For a hypothetical 100 square game with a
whole army crowded board mobility of 125, this is 100 squared divided by
120 = 80, while an 81 square game with a whole army mobility of 72 = 91
1/8.  I would predict that the first hypothtical game would have a typical
number of moves close to FIDE chess than the second, even though it has
more squares. 

Final results significanlty greater than 64 indicate games that play
slower than FIDE Chess, results significantly less than 64 indicate games
that play faster than FIDE Chess.

Taking two real games as examples:

Betza's Tripunch Chess would play faster than FIDE Chess even if it were
played on a 10 by 10 board,

Feeble Los Alamos Chess will play slower than FIDE Chess even though it is
played on a 6 by 6 board.

There is no real need to do the actual calculations for purposes such as
time limits for tournaments--a good guess as to whether the game is faster
or slower than FIDE chess is adequate.  The relevant factors are number of
squares, piece density, and strength of pieces.

John Lawson wrote on Fri, Sep 13, 2002 12:56 AM UTC:
The measurement that was used by Gabriel Vincente Maura to justify the
design of his variant, Modern Chess (Ajedrez Moderno), 
http://www.chessvariants.com/large.dir/modern.html
is kind of interesting.  This is taken from the booklet that came with my
Modern Chess set, 'Mathematical Thesis of Modern Chess', 50 p., 2nd
English Edition Revised, 1974.

He defines the maximum mobility of each piece as the number of squares it
can move to from its best position on the board, that is:

K=8, Q=27, B=13, N=8, R=14, P=2

The maximum relatve mobility for the total of each player's pieces is the
sum of the maximum mobilities of all the pieces, divided by two, because
there are two players.  Thus:

(K+Q+2B+2N+2R+8P)/2 = (8+27+26+16+28+16)2 = 60.5

He defines the maximum mobility that the chessboard offers simply as the
number of squares.  He wants the maximum relative mobility of the pieces
(60.5) to be equal to the maximum mobility offered by the chess board
(64).  Since the numbers aren't equal, he declares FIDE Chess to be
defective.  Needless to say, for Modern Chess, with the addition of the
Marshall, both numbers work out to 81.

Some example calculations for other variants:

                  'mobility'   board
Grand Chess           98        100
Timur's Chess         86        112
Xiang Qi              59.5       90
Shogi(unpromoted)     45.5       81
Shogi(promoted)       75         81

I believe that this is little better than numerology, but it's still fun
to play with.

Ben Good wrote on Thu, Sep 12, 2002 11:09 PM UTC:
ok, i'll have to come back and read more carefully later, but one thing i
noticed is something to the effect that wider boards help increase the
value of diagonal movers more than orthogonal movers.  i have had no
experience that would even remoately back up such a claim.  in david
short's doublechess, a game in which the board is 16x8, the bishop is
severely weakened by the width of the board.  it's well-known that
increasing the board size weakens the knight, but in doublechess the B is
hurt almost as much as the N by the board change (comparing to 8x8).  the
fact that it is more likely to attack the opponent's camp in 2 directions
rather than 1 is small compensation for the fact that it often takes 10
moves or move to get the bishop from side of the board to the other.  the
rook, on the other hand, is not affected at all.  in fact, when studying
the relative values of pieces on different sized boards, it is my claim
that all other things being equal, the rook is the most consistent piece
from board to board, and should be the baseline against which other pieces
are measured.

Peter Aronson wrote on Thu, Sep 12, 2002 10:18 PM UTC:
Michael <p> I got a little sloppy there talking about diagonal moves. Indeed a wider board allows a diagonal moving piece access to a higher percentage of longer moves. However, consider a 12x8 board. The longest possible Bishop move is 7 squares, but the longest possible Rook or Queen move is 11. And while in the opening and midgame those forward attacking moves are the most important, this is less so in the endgame. <p> Your big project sounds reminiscent of Parton's 2000 AD or Royal Fury. This, no doubt, why you've been playing around with Gorgonas (what about Gorgons? -- now <strong>there's</strong> a piece to shudder over!). I'd be interested in seeing what you've got, although I can't promise to spend much time on it at the moment. <p> <hr> <p> John <p> I think Xiangqi's low density gives the game a lot of its distinctive character.

John Lawson wrote on Thu, Sep 12, 2002 09:50 PM UTC:
For comparison's sake, I quickly calculated some piece densities:

Shogi     49.4%
XiangQi   35.6%
Timur's   50.0%

The density of any 9x9 variant with an extra piece is 44.4%

M. Howe wrote on Thu, Sep 12, 2002 09:48 PM UTC:
I have two observations.  First is that I think wide boards actually
increase the relative value of diagonal movers, not orthogonal ones. 
Consider a very long narrow board.  It will take a diagonal mover many
moves before it can hit a square on the opponent's half of the board,
whereas an orthogonal mover can do so on turn one.  On a wide board, the
diagonal mover has more squares from which it can attack squares in the
opponent's camp.

Secondly, I agree about unit density.  I am currently working on a large,
complex ultima-like game with powerful unorthodox pieces.  I found that
the game only works on a 10x10 board with three rows: one row of pawns,
one row of guards (with value intermediate between pawns and pieces but
without the pawn's ability to promote) and one row of pieces.  Unit
density is 0.60.  Immediate development is slower than in orthochess, but
because units are more mobile than orthodox pieces, the game heats up
pretty quickly.  All of the games I have playtested, and there have been a
lot, have ended in less than a hundred moves.  The game isn't quite ready
for posting to these pages but if anyone is interested in seeing what I'm
talking about and wants to email me, I can send them a 'beta' version. 
It's quite playable and interesting, I think.  But you'll only like it if
you like games that are more complex and somewhat wilder than orthochess.

Peter Aronson wrote on Thu, Sep 12, 2002 08:56 PM UTC:
Things are too quite here, so I'm going to ramble on a bit. <p> Orthochess has a piece density of 50% -- 16 pieces on each side, and 64 squares on which to put them. Most variants on 8x8 keep that piece density, but almost all variants on 10x10 boards have a lower density. For example, recently Modern Kamil and a set of Chess with Ultima, Rococo and Supremo Pieces variants have been published on these pages, all with a density of 40%. This effects play a fair bit. <p> It's not just these recent variants, either of course. Grand Chess has a density of 40%, while Omega Chess has a density of 42%. Of course, those variants that keep a board of 8 rows, no matter how long, such as Gothic Chess or King's Court or (David Short's) Double Chess can keep a density of 50%. But very wide boards increase the power of orthogonal pieces at the expense of other pieces. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but it has a definite effect on the play of the game. <p> One reason for the lower piece density is a certain reluctance to go to three row arrays. Mind you, Al-Ces has a full three-line array with a piece density of 60%, but it's a game that takes a very long time to play. That might be a lot of the reason. I have an unpublished Chess variant on a 10x10 board that I playtested with Tony Quantilla where each side had 25 pieces (10 Pawns, 3 'Super-Pawns' and 12 pieces per side), and it seemed like we had a ton of material each. While Tony got the upper hand on me early on, it seemed like it took forever for him to finish me off. Perhaps 20-22 pieces is right number to have on a 10x10 board if you want fairly Orthchess-like play. <p> The moral of this rambling? Maybe you can't compare densities between different size boards. Perhaps there is some better measurement out there (although if you are trying for a game whose play is not much like Orthochess, then you shouldn't care, anyway).

Anniversary[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Tony Quintanilla wrote on Tue, Sep 10, 2002 09:06 PM UTC:
I would suggest that with the anniversary of 9-11 tomorrow that--although
perhaps in a small way--Chess is a point of sanity in this world, a world
much in need of this. Remember the candle?

Taste in CVs[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Peter Aronson wrote on Fri, Sep 6, 2002 10:20 PM UTC:
Vincent wrote: <i><blockquote> I've considered the vast majority of the chess variants on these pages, and, after some study, research, and play-testing, I found a grand total of two that I feel are worth my time to play: Gothic Chess & Omega Chess, and neither of them are on the list... </blockquote></i> Hmm. Tastes do vary. I've only gotten around to playing about 82+- of the games on this site by my latest count (that is, with people, bunches more with Zillions, but playing Chess variants against computers is rather like a [analogy left out as this is a family website]), and I would say almost all of them were worth my time to play, although some I am in no particular hurry to play again soon. What is it you were looking for in a CV? In particular, what were you looking for where you would leave off Xiangqi and Shogi, games that are far more widely popular than either Omega Chess or Gothic Chess?

10x10 Boards[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Ben Good wrote on Mon, Sep 2, 2002 09:13 PM UTC:
btw, i am also aware that the commercial variant 'roman chess' comes with a vinyl 10x10 board. it looks pretty nice, but the set is also $70, which seems rather high, especially considering that the design of the additional piece is one of the most uncreative pieces i've ever seen. <P> sorry, looks like we have gotten into a discussion here that's become completely unrelated to the page we're actually posting it to.

Ben Good wrote on Mon, Sep 2, 2002 08:44 PM UTC:
Thanks, but i have an omegachess set. we're looking for something considerably nicer than the omegachess board, which is made out of cardboard and has a cut halfway through so that it can fold into quarters. it would not do the exchess pieces justice.

Doug Chatham wrote on Mon, Sep 2, 2002 01:10 PM UTC:
Perhaps you might consider buying an Omega Chess set
(http://www.omegachess.com), which uses a 10x10 board with extra corner
squares which could be ignored for the 10x10 gaes you want to play.

Ben Good wrote on Mon, Sep 2, 2002 12:06 PM UTC:
John's way ahead of me, i was about to post the same thing. we couldn't find anything, i couldn't even find anything overseas - except the grandchess board on freeling's site, which, altho nice looking, is very expensive and has huge shipping charges. <P> there was also the 12x12 quantum board, but i never saved the money to get a set, and reportedly the company no longer exists. <P> george hodges sells vinyl 7x7, 9x9, 11x11, 12x12, 15x15, 17x17, 19x19 and 25x25, but again he is transatlantic and not inexpensive, and additionally the boards are uncheckered. <P> i have found almost nothing on ebay either. <P> i am mostly interested in a 10x10 for use with the exchess pieces. i hope to eventually make my own tile boards similar to the ones tony quintilla made, but it may be awhile before i have the time or the money to do this, and i'm not sure how well mine will come out. and i'm still interested in wood boards and exploring all options. <P>

Card Chess w/o R[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Peter Aronson wrote on Sat, Aug 24, 2002 04:20 PM UTC:
Another possibility is to use as a base game where material doesn't decrease over the course of the game, such as Chessgi. Of course, to some extent card hording is a good thing in the context of this game, as it allows some additional tactics, and using Chessgi as a base would decrease the possibility for this. <p> One could go for more radical modifications, of course, but they would be less Chess-like. For instance, if a player has no Pawns, and has no cards that would allow them to move any piece but their King, they may drop a Pawn using a Pawn card on any unoccupied square on their 2nd rank. That, combined with promotion, might allow more decisive endgames.

Mike Nelson wrote on Sat, Aug 24, 2002 03:21 PM UTC:
Peter,

It seems like another new game is about to be born in the comments system.
 It looks like a very good one.  If drawishness is a problem because of
hoarding cards as you suggest it may be, perhaps the answer is to use a
stronger than FIDE army to compensate for the difficulites of moving.

K and Amazon vs K should be more winnable than K and Q vs K as fewer moves
are needed=card hoarding is less effective. But I would really prefer the
FIDE army if the game is playable with it.

Peter Aronson wrote on Sat, Aug 24, 2002 03:30 AM UTC:
Castling as a King move is a good idea, I think.  The endgame.  Hmm.  A K +
Q vs K endgame could be stymied by the player with the bare King holding
on to the KQ, PQ and (Wild) cards.  I wonder if some additional mechanism
is called for.  Of course, it needs to be seen if this game comes down to
situations like that.  Pawns are relatively mobile, and because there are
many cards that let Pawns move, they defend each other with greater
effectiveness than other pieces.  It seems to indicate that Pawnless
endgames may not be as common as in usual Chess.

Glenn Overby II wrote on Sat, Aug 24, 2002 01:09 AM UTC:
Does castling require one card, or two, as you see it?  I vote one, a King
card, since officially castling has long been viewed as a move of the
King.  But I could go either way.

A 19-card set sounds like a plan...White with nine, Black with nine plus
the Wild card, no card used on White's first move.

I can see some potential for endgame draws, where mating material is
hindered by a lack of sufficient cards to make the moves.  :)

Peter Aronson wrote on Fri, Aug 23, 2002 05:55 PM UTC:
An issue has occured to me -- under the rules I've defined, Black will always have one or two cards more than white, which is probably excessive. <p> Here's an idea to correct it: <ul> <p> <li> White starts with 1 copy each of all cards except the wild card, black starts with the cards white does, plus 1 wild card. </li> <p> <li> On white's first move, they use no card; thus black starts with the wild card and with one more card than white. </li> </ul> Black starting with the wild card offsets white's first move advantage some, hopefully.

Peter Aronson wrote on Fri, Aug 23, 2002 05:11 PM UTC:
I like your 10 card set -- it makes card hording more practical, while allowing the Kings and Pawns reasonably mobile. And with 6 out of 10 cards showing the King, I agree the special King privilege to use the attacking piece's card when in check is not in necessary. <hr> :: Peter, you think too much! :) <p> Well, 'Die Gedanken sind frei', I guess :)

Glenn Overby II wrote on Fri, Aug 23, 2002 12:30 AM UTC:
Just had another thought...a 10-card version with five cards each for King
and Pawn, two cards each for others, with the Wild card.  Or 9 without the
Wild card.  The optimum card mix, as you astutely noted, may not yet be
known.

KQ KB KN KR KP PQ PB PN PR (Wild)

Glenn Overby II wrote on Fri, Aug 23, 2002 12:26 AM UTC:
I need to play with this.  It's quite an idea.

I wonder if the King shouldn't be like any other piece, even in check; if
you're in check, have no card to move the King, and can't defeat the check
otherwise it is mate.

The concept will map with interesting results to a lot of variants that
use the ordinary 8x8 and 32 pieces.  The cards might even work best with a
form other than orthochess.

Peter, you think too much!  :)

Peter Aronson wrote on Thu, Aug 22, 2002 03:23 PM UTC:
Here's a little throwaway thought I had on the morning drive: <h3>Card Chess Without Randomness or Hidden Information</h3> People have used cards to add an element of randomness to Chess, probably for centuries. I have no problem with this, but some people do, a fact that led me to wonder if an interesting version of Chess with Cards containing no random elements or other hidden information could be constructed. <h4>The Equipment</h4> Each player starts with 16 cards, 15 of which contain all the possible unordered combinations of two pieces, and the last of which is a wild card. Thus: <p> PN, PB, PR, PQ, PK, NB, NR, NQ, NK, BR, BQ, BK, NQ, NK, QK, Wild. <h4>The Play</h4> To move a piece, a player must have a card with either that piece on the card or they must have a wild card. Upon moving that piece, they hand the card they used to allow the move to their opponent, who adds it to their own cards. <p> If a player has no card that would allow them to move any of their pieces, they lose. Other forms of stalemate are also losses. <p> Pieces give check even without their player having a card that would allow them to move the piece. <p> If the King is in check, it may be moved either by playing a card with a King on it, or by playing a card with a piece attacking the King on it. If the King is in check and you have no card that would allow it to move, then it is mate. <h4>Chess with Different Armies</h4> This scheme ought to work OK with Chess with Different Armies, although I am not entirely sure what the consequences are, since the relative strength of pieces from equivalent array positions differ (for example, in the Remarkable Rookies the 'Bishop' is Rook strength, and the 'Rook' is a minor piece; the Colorbound Clobberers are even more oddly distributed). <h4>Comments</h4> Since there are plenty of cards with each piece, openings ought to be fairly standard. Things start to get weird when players lose all of types of piece. If a player has no Knights, Bishops or Queens, then the cards NB, NQ and BQ will never leave their hands. <p> Possibly there are too many cards with each piece on them.

PBEM Tournament[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Tony Quintanilla wrote on Wed, Aug 21, 2002 04:03 AM UTC:
Wonderful idea! As far as the timing, either the 3 days per move or the
total day limit idea would work, I think. Total days used could be tracked
manually with each PBEM exchange. As far as a list of games, here's some
ideas:
- Chaturanga (worthy grandad of Chess)
- Jumping Chess (interesting capturing mechanic)
- Glinski's Hexagonal Chess (hex mechanics)
- Makruk (wonderful old and contemporary variant)
- Take Over Chess (I'm partial to it!)
- Chess on a Longer Board (its that Wall)
- Xiangqi (another worthy variant)
- Mulligan Stew Chess (crazy but fun)

Ben Good wrote on Tue, Aug 20, 2002 12:56 AM UTC:
i see quite a few things have been posted on this subject while i was out
of town this weekend.  i would also caution against too many large
variants for the same reason that they take much longer to play.  in a
previous comment i listed a bunch of larger variants as possibilities, but
i wasn't suggested we play all of them, just that they were all good
possibilities.  i would also be careful about small variants that are
chosen.  as both a game designer and judge, i know that designing a small
chess variant is much more difficult than designing a medium or large one.
 i found very very few small variants that i was truly impressed with, and
even fewer that were so well designed that they would not have been
improved if the ideas had been extended to a larger game.  even some of
the games that ranked high in some of the contests i found to be quite
weak.

Glenn Overby II wrote on Mon, Aug 19, 2002 04:10 AM UTC:
It looks like I'll be the editor in charge of the first tournament.  Right
now I have compiled, with plenty of suggestions, a list of 42 games to
pick from.  They break down around 50% regular board size, 33% smaller,
16% larger.

I am constructing a poll to allow folks to vote on any of those games they
would like to see in, and indeed to suggest others.  The set of games to
be used _in 2003_ will be picked by the staff here guided by the polls. 
We want a mix of old, new, big, small, etc.  Variety is key the first time
out.

When and if the first tourney succeeds, I'd love to see 'thematics' later,
much as we have held a variety of design contests.  The linchpin issue is
simply whether we can get players.  I'd be happy with 10, but would love
20 or more.  And picking good games is a prerequisite to getting players.

And I agree with the comment that there are so many good games it's hard
to get agreement on a list.  That's why I suggested this; lots of good
games languishing in obscurity.

Please keep the feedback coming...

M. Howe wrote on Mon, Aug 19, 2002 03:01 AM UTC:
I prefer regular-sized or large variants to small ones, so I'd not like to
see the contest limited to games of 38-41 squares, though I'd certainly
not object to some of those games being included.   I'd rather see the
slate of games for any given year be eclectic -- some small, some
normal-sized, some large, and from a variety of inventors or sources.  You
get to experience more interesting games that way, I think, and no one
gets left out because all of the games in a given year are not to his/her
taste.

John Lawson wrote on Mon, Aug 19, 2002 02:21 AM UTC:
These are the salient points, as I see them:

- There are so many good variants it's hard to even agree on a list to
select from.

- Large variants should be carefully considered because of playing time
considerations.

- Subsequent PBEM tournaments could have different themes.

My proposal:

- Select the variants from the top three finishers of the 38, 39, 40, and
41 square contests.  This gives 12 selections to choose from, and most are
not famous or recognized variants.  Their playablility is proven, they are
relatively small, and should generally be done quickly.

I like the idea of holding a different PBEM contest each year, if there is
interest.  Possibilities include a Large Variant theme (selected from the
Large Variant, 100 square, and 84 square contests); a Betza theme (all
Betza variants); an Aronson theme.  The games selected for these contests
should not overlap.  Other possibilities include a history theme
(Shatranj, Xiangqi, Shogi, Makruk, etc.); a Shogi variant theme (Tori,
Chu, Wa, etc.); etc.

Count me in.

LAWS OF CHESS[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Mike Nelson wrote on Sun, Aug 18, 2002 07:06 AM UTC:
There is no such rule.  The maximum allowable number of moves in such a
position is 50, with certain conditions. (See the laws for more details
about the fifty move rule.)

The figure thirteen probably comes from end game studies. If I remember
correctly, King and Rook vs bare King can mate in 13 moves or less
starting from any legal, non-stalemated position.  I belive the
corresponding figures are 8 for King and Queen vs bare King, 14 for King
and 2 Bishops (on opposite colors) vs bare King, and 49 for King, Bishop,
and Knight vs bare King. [Someone please correct me if my memory is
faulty.]

But all the numbers I quoted assume perfect play--the laws do not require
perfect play. (Except in the last case, but truthfully I don't know how to
force mate with a Bishop and Knight in 1000 moves, nor has anyone ever
done it to me.)

MALCOLM wrote on Sun, Aug 18, 2002 02:46 AM UTC:
HAS ANYONE HEARD OF A MAXIMUM OF 13 ALLOWABLE MOVES TO MATE A LONE KING,
ASSUMING ENOUGH OPPOSING PIECES FOR A CHECKMATE?

PBEM Tournament[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Glenn Overby II wrote on Fri, Aug 16, 2002 05:30 AM UTC:
I'm afraid I don't recognize some of those.  :)

Maybe we have to do a Ralph Betza tournament some time.  Then a Peter
Aronson tournament the following year.  Maybe Parton or Schmittberger or
Freeling the year after that.

gnohmon wrote on Fri, Aug 16, 2002 03:37 AM UTC:
Obviously, the ten games should be Chess with Different Armies, Feeble
Chess, Tripunch Chess, Half Chess, Amontillado Chess, Progressive
Cambiamarce DemiChess, Torus Peacebump Punch Chess, Cloud Chess, All Go
Together Chess, Nemoroth, and Alice's Chessgi.

I tend to pick from games i'm more familiar with....

M. Howe wrote on Fri, Aug 16, 2002 01:28 AM UTC:
I think I like Glenn's idea of X days per move, with one warning before
forfeiture, and suspension upon proper notice of vacation, illness,
personal matters, etc.  Since this tournament should be viewed as a
friendly one between like-minded variant players, the rules shouldn't be
too restrictive.  I think 3 days per player-move should cover most
situations other than the aforementioned major ones, and it means that in
a year all games that take less than 60 full moves will be finished.  In
reality, games even much longer can probably be finished since players
will in most cases not take 3 days for every move.  For some games, and on
some days, I know that I will be able to play several moves if my opponent
is agreeable.

Glenn Overby II wrote on Fri, Aug 16, 2002 01:06 AM UTC:
Time limits are the headache of correspondence chess.  Sigh.  I, too, am
spoiled by Richard's PBEM server.  The Omega Chess tournament there is at
G/180 days (30 days vacation with notice allowed), and that G/180 gets
counted to the minute and second by the central server.

Obviously we don't have that option.

Suggestions for how to best count a G/XX time limit are welcome.  I'd like
to see a year maximum on the games, and expect to see more small variants
than large for that reason (and the fact that we've had a lot of small
variant design contests!).

An absolute time limit of Y days for any individual move, with one warning
and a notice provision for vacations, might also work in lieu of the
above.

Ben Good wrote on Fri, Aug 16, 2002 12:25 AM UTC:
caissa is a good game, it's fun and light and games don't take that long to play. freeling isn't so big on it anymore tho, it used to be on the mind arena and it's not anymore. but i still think it would be a good one for the tourney. flip shogi is a good one also. <P> i'd recommend against rifle chess. i found it to be a very poor game. <P> i'd also wondering about what we're going to do for time constraints. i know from experience that a general statement 'everybody should move as fast as possible' doesn't work; everybody moves as fast as possible until they're busy with other things in their lives, or the game gets to a complicated state. a move per day doesn't work either, too many people can't get online every day, nor does it give you extra time for complicated positions. i have to admit tho, that i don't have any good ideas for a solution right now. i'm now spoiled by richard's pbm, which clocks everybody's time and can be set so that each player has a total amount of time (such as 120 days) to finish their game.

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