Comments by zzo38computer
"You can do this even if you don't have one" means that even if you have not yet placed it onto the board, or if it has been captured. However, it is somewhat risky since it might give your opponent an extra move (such a move might not be to their advantage, but it might be very much to their advantage!).
If you don't like citadel to be a draw, you can make up the subvariant, moving king into opponent's citadel is a half-win. Maybe this way better.
Your (Robert Price) idea is same as mine, however I think you need to either do it like Queens Left chess, or else allow bishops to not be colorbound.
I was wondering about pawns movement too like Bastien, but Gilman answered in a good way.
Using rules for shogi, since is 9x9 board (odd number of ranks), you need some way to know how to figure out the middle rank! One way could be, the middle rank is fixed and is always considered a part of the board. Using such a game with shogi also has a lot of other consequences: Rule of pawns movement mentioned in the paragraph above would also apply to nearly all pieces of a shogi game (王將 are the only exception). If you already have your own æ©å…µ in one file, maybe you put together the boards that hide it so that you can drop another one anyways, and with boards rotated into place it can be caused even without dropping pieces into the board. Making a checkmate by placing æ©å…µ into the board also is affected by which board is placed together.
With xiangqi, you can easily split the board according to the river, but then there is the condition of 將/帥 not being allowed to look at each other. Rules are required to consider this. For example, you can mean, you are not allowed to join together the boards which would cause such a condition, or you can use a 飛將 ("flying generals") rule, meaning you will take over the opponent's palace. The other thing is many name of pieces are different for each side, in xiangqi, such as 象 and 相. You can resolve this easily, by just picking one set of names, or just mixing them up whichever way you want.
It would be even more strange with Go. Again you need a fixed middle row. You could have multiple board pieces that can be joined together, although nobody owns one of them as opposed to another one. You can capture groups by picking which parts of boards to join, too. Rules about how you are allowed to lose your own pieces becomes more significant in this case. You could even play with three half boards but with only two players, even.
Editing the URL like that is no longer necessary if you have JavaScripts. (If you don't have JavaScripts, the form will probably still work, but without possibility to select multiple categories.)
Another idea is that in case of stalemate, use this Braves' Chess rule (or any other rule that eliminates draws) to determine who win, but the winner then only get half a point instead of a full point in such a case.
It is using a chess set, at least, so maybe it is like a "chess variant" in that way, at least.
Yes, it is supposed to be reversed; the diagram is wrong.
O, so in other words, in this game pawns can make an initial double-step on a light square in the first two rows, I suppose.
To implement owner choosing the promotion in Zillions, what you can do is to have another move-type with first priority, giving the pawn a move with that priority that is only valid on the back rank, and then it has the move to transform into the other player's "PromotingIntoQueen" or whatever (the pawn has four moves with this priority); that piece also has the priority move, which just changes into the opponent's queen or whatever it promoted into. Therefore the turn order is working in the correct order.
- Pawns can additionally promoted into Kings.
- Kings cannot capture Pawn Eaters.
- You must lose all Pawns and Kings, to lose the game.
- If a Pawn Eater captures your last Pawn then you lose immediately even if you have some Kings on board too.
My impression of the game from what I read, the game is not bad, but it isn't exceptionally good either (compared to the large number of other chess variants possible, and even games such as shogi and xiangqi!). This game is certainly an improvement over FIDE, though, and deserves that people will play it as much as other chess variants and other games.
The PDF can be purchased for either $0.00 or $4.99, at your choice. I do not think it is worth $4.99, but the option is there if you do think it is worth that much. For the low price of $0.00, I think it is certainly worth looking at if you are interested in chess variants (or Sirlin's other games in general), though; it would also certainly be worth more than $4.99 in a book full of chess variants, or that discussed strategy too, or whatever.
It does have some interesting ideas, such as the dueling rules, different army selection, centerline crossing. However, I am not quite sure that the 5th rank to win is difficult enough, or if it should be moved to the 6th, 7th, or possibly even the 8th rank.
The different armies are numbered from I to VI, so you can use a dice to select one at random if you wish to do so. (A further variant can be if you not only select at random but also keep it a secret, requiring the opponent to deduce what army you are playing.)
The ideas in this game could be applied in some ways to other kind of chess games too, such as shogi, xiangqi, and others. It could then make more situation, and more ideas, too.
Sirlin's other games are much better than this one, and they are certainly worth the money they cost (all the information you need to play is available for free (which actually makes it worth the money, as far as I am concerned!), but they sell high-quality physical equipment and they are definitely worth the money). I have two of them, and am interested in the others, too.
I don't particularly like the name "Chess 2" for this game, and think "Sirlin's Chess" would be a good name for it (the game is still pretty good though, but it is just one of many possible variants). But, maybe someone is able to somehow figure out how to combine this game with his other games (to make something new)...
Maybe it might help to have one submenu for "Random", to make the list of possible choices for random of what kind you want.
Also, I have added the random item checkbox to the Advanced Search menu.
You didn't mention notations of pieces which aren't starting on the board. I can make up a suggestion (if you don't like it, make up the new one):
- X = Buddha
- J = Maharajah
A variant which may be possible if you want to add slightly some more Buddha, would be: If the Untouchable piece that has never captured anyone reaches the final row, it is also promoted to the Buddha. I would expect such a thing is also unlikely, but maybe it isn't unlikely enough.
I also noticed, this is the kind of game that the other pieces does not block your way.
There seem to be the possibility to move the Rakshasa next to a royal piece both in where it comes from and where it is moving into, and can keep to continue from there one or other player. If you don't like this, the variant can be done, that it is not allow to make a move of a Rakshasa ending up adjacent to a royal piece (of either color) if no pieces are removed from board as the result (pieces are removed either by capturing, or by the Rakshssa's requirement to remove the piece near it that allows it to move).
I like "Tilelioncub"! Maybe it can even be used in some kind of shogi variant; maybe the Tilegeneral can promote to Tilelioncub. Other similar thing can be done with some of the other kind of pieces too. Even if it doesn't move very far at first, opponent can captured, drop on promotion zone, and then it is promoted during next turn. Now, you can stop in a space other than captured piece's space (or capture two pieces at once), even though you cannot stay still, as you would be with normal lion pieces.
You could use this "lion moves" possibly with riders too, for example a "rook lion" might move like:
********* ..4***X.. ********* .3+2$**X. ********* ******1.. ++++5*++6 ...++*+..Where "$" is this piece, "X" is other your pieces, numbers is capturable opponent's pieces, "*" is vacant spaces it can land on if not capturing, "+" is vacant spaces it can land on only if capturing, and "." is otherwise.
Therefore, you can capture 2 and 3 (stopping on 3), or capture 5 and 6 (stopping on 6), or capture only 1, or 2, or 4, or 5.
But, another variant might be, if, capturing a piece you must end on a space with a distance closer to the captured piece's square then it started from (if you capture two, you have to do for both)? Then, it might be:
..++3++.. ..4***X.. ********* ...2$**X. ********* ******1.. ..++5*+.. ....+*+..
As it turns out, this diagram does not explain everything, however.
Does it remain a ghostrider when no longer threatened or does it lose ghostrider powers when no longer threatened? I think the latter is better way in my opinion.
It can result in all sorts of strange things, you can make your knight threatened by a pinned piece, especially if you make a discovered attack on your own knight you can put opponent in check in this way, and even get out of check by interposing the threat to the knight.
While this is good, I think the pieces other than knights aren't moving often enough. A subvariant is if you roll 1 then you can move anything other than a knight or squire.
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